Puppy Information
by Helen Kibble
Helen is a qualified vet nurse, dog trainer and dog behaviourist working in the Chelmsford area of Essex. For more information about Helen contact 07793 737730.
Puppy Socialisation
The most critical period in a puppies development is between the ages of 4 to 12 weeks during which they have reduced fear responses, a natural adaptation that enables greater exploration of their environment. However this is also the time when we remove the puppy from the security of its mother and siblings, and present it with a new home in which it has to learn what it is to be a dog and how to survive in human society. Many problems seen in adult dogs are as a result of poor socialisation and training during this impressionable age. After 12 weeks the fear responses return so that new experiences are met with caution and suspicion.
How to socialise your puppy
Working breeds, such as collies and German Shepherds, are more likely to develop phobias and stress related behavioural problems so may require more socialisation. The key is to keep all experiences short and positive!
Noises
This includes day to day noises both inside and outside of the home environment that we consider ‘normal’, for example the washing machine, hoover, lawnmower, and banging of saucepans, or the honking of a car horn, rubbish collecting lorries etc. The best time for household noises is when the puppy is distracted by something positive such as its food or a toy, the background noise will then be accepted as normal. Until your puppy has been fully vaccinated outside noises can be encountered whilst sitting on a bench with the puppy on your lap or by walking with the puppy in your arms down a busy street, as the puppies confidence grows (and once it has been fully vaccinated) it can then be placed on the floor.
People
Try to introduce your puppy to as many different people as possible, see the below for more ideas. As before, walking with your puppy in your arms, down a busy street or near to the local school will help; after all no one can resist saying hello to a cute puppy! Once your puppy is vaccinated and walking on the ground it is essential to teach it some good manners, i.e.: sitting calmly and waiting to be stroked, it may be cute when they jump up at this age but as they get bigger their claws can do some serious damage especially to small children. Encourage your pup into the sit position whenever a new person strokes them. If they get over excited ask the person to take a step back and wait for puppy to settle. Over time your puppy will learn all fours must be planted on the floor before I get my cuddles!
Things to introduce your puppy to on a regular basis between the age of 8 weeks and 12 months.
Babies
Toddlers
Teenagers
Elderly people
Loud confident people
Shy, timid people
Joggers
Delivery people
People with shopping bags
People with umbrellas
People wearing glasses
People wearing motorbike helmets
Adult dogs
Other puppies
Other animals
Shopping centre
Park
Fete/car boot sale
Slippery/ uneven floors/slopes
Road works
Street boards
Man hole covers
Wheelie bins
Vets
Grooming parlour
Bicycles/skateboards
Motorbikes
Pushchairs
Dustcart
Traffic/busy rd/car park
Going in the car
Other animals
Introduce your puppy to other dogs and smaller pets such as cats and rabbits. Use a lead to restrain your pup and prevent it from chasing or frightening them. It is a good idea to teach them the ‘leave’ or ‘nicely’ command as they get older. No predator animal/dog should be left unsupervised with small pets as their natural instinct is to chase and play or even kill them. If you have no other pets take your pup to a friends house, especially those with well-behaved vaccinated dogs of various shapes and forms.
Travelling
Anxiety, excitability or nervousness are the most common causes of travel sickness in dogs rather than true motion sickness. Unfortunately many people save car journeys for trips to the vets, this will result in association of the car with vaccinations and pain or discomfort. Instead accustom you pup to the car by first getting it used to being in a stationary car, then a car with the engine running and finally being driven for short 10 minute trips to the end of the road or a local park. Try to stop and let the puppy out before it is sick (when it starts salivating) therefore eliminating the bad experience connecting the car with vomit! This will build the puppies confidence so that the journey time can gradually be increased.
Positioning the pup so that it can see you for reassurance and taking its favourite toys to act as a distraction during the journey, whilst ensuring adequate ventilation will avoid heat stress. It is advisable not to give food before the start of any journey.
Despite your best efforts some puppies will always have funny tummies when it comes to travelling in the car, there are a variety of natural remedies available that may help:
• Dog Appeasing Pheromones- a pheromone that is released by the mother when nursing her pups this can be used to calm puppies and adult dogs when stressed. The spray can be used in the car 15mins prior to expected effects and will last for one to two hours.
• Scullcap and Valerian tablets/drops- can to be used to relieve anxiety, calm and relax the animal and reduce excessive salivation.
• Ginger tablets- a natural anti emetic/vomit. Remember safety is important: the puppy should travel behind a dog guard and ideally in a crate, or secured to the seat belt with a special dog harness. Don’t let your pup hang its head out of the window and never leave them in the car on a hot day.
Remember safety is important: the puppy should travel behind a dog guard and ideally in a crate, or secured to the seat belt with a special dog harness. Don’t let your pup hang its head out of the window and never leave them in the car on a hot day.
Good Manners
Learning to spend time alone
Puppy cages are the easiest way to provide a safe, secure environment: they have the advantage of preventing many problem behaviours such as chewing whilst offering a safe den for your pup to sleep in. The puppy cage should not be used as a punishment instead the puppy should be happy to enter it.
Placing its bed as well as toys and food within the kennel will encourage the pup to enter and make the place feel like home.
Puppies, like all young animals, fear abandonment by their parent figure until they mature and become more self-reliant, the puppy therefore needs to learn that it is ok to be away from people. Initially the puppy should be allowed to walk in and out of the cage as it wishes, but when the pup is happy with the cage the door can be closed for short periods. Ideally shortly after a meal or when the pup is tiring and is likely to settle down for a sleep (make sure pup has been to the toilet recently!) If the puppy reacts positively by falling asleep or playing with toys, the time can be increased. If the puppy starts scratching or barking do not be tempted to let it out or acknowledge its behaviour as this reinforces bad behaviour, instead wait for the puppy to calm down.
Never punish the pup when you return, no matter what has happened whilst you have been away, he will not be able to link the punishment with the crime, instead he will be anxious next time you leave thinking you will always come back angry!
Dog appeasing pheromones- as previously mentioned this is produced by mum to relax and reassure her pups. It is also available in a plug in that is undetectable to humans. This can be used in the same room as the pup, ideally at ground level close to the cage, a week before the pup is due to arrive. It helps the pup settle into its new home, and is even believed to improve responses to training and other new stimuli.
House Training
Most animals that are born in a nest have an instinctive desire to move away from the nest to go to the toilet. Dogs are no exception and at the age of three weeks they will begin to leave the sleeping area to urinate. They are pre-programmed to be house trained, we just have to teach them that the houses are our nests and that they have to go right outside when they need the toilet.
Take your puppy outside to the same spot in your garden at the following times:
Within 20 minutes of each feed
After playing
After exercise
After excitement (visitors)
First thing in morning and last thing at night
At least once every hour
Your puppy should have a toilet area in the garden that has already been chosen and organised in advance (an enclosed area with no toys or distractions is best). Walk the puppy out to the chosen area and allow it to sniff around. Be patient and wait. As soon as it begins, say a chosen phrase such as ‘be clean’ or ‘toilet’. When your pup has finished praise enthusiastically (make that tail wag!) and play a game with it.
If your puppy goes outside, does not do toilet but then comes inside and does it, it could be that it was too busy playing and exploring its new home and ‘forgot’ about needing the toilet. Make it a rule that your pup should toilet first then play.
If you leave your puppy to it, it will probably run to the back door and spend the rest of the time trying to get back in with you. Once you let it back in the house, the stress of the separation together with the increased excitement will make it want to go and you will be left with a mess inside!
Although you need to stay outside with your puppy there is no need to stay there for hours! Wait a few minutes and, if nothing happens take it inside and try again later.
If at any time during the day you notice your puppy sniffing the floor and circling, or getting ready to squat, take them outside. Let them walk. Do not pick your puppy up or it will not learn the route and learn to go to the door to ‘ask’ to go out.
If you catch your puppy going in the house, shout loud enough to catch his attention but not so loud that it runs for cover! Do not get angry as your pup will learn to sneak away and hide from you when it needs to go, making training harder. As soon as you have shouted runaway from your pup towards the back door, calling it happily and encouraging it to follow. Go outside to your chosen spot and wait for your pup to relax and finish what it started.
Puppy cages can be helpful in teaching your pup to be clean in the house: Instinctively puppies do not soil their sleeping area, therefore confining them for short periods when unsupervised avoids accidents.
It is important to remember that puppies have small bladders and reduced bladder control! At a very young age they cannot be expected to last eight hours (overnight) without any accidents, and that plenty of opportunity for correct toileting should be given.
Accidents will happen
If the puppy goes in the wrong place do not scold it or ‘rub its nose in it’, you are telling the pup off for something it has to do naturally! Indeed this may cause problems in the future as the dog will learn to eat its own faeces to ‘clear up the mess’. Instead ignore accidents, think of them as a failure on your part for not letting the pup outside in time.
The prevention of accidents in the house is much easier than curing them. Once a puppy gets into the habit of toileting where it chooses it can be difficult to convince it otherwise. Toileting inside will leave traces of scent on the floor that your puppy with its ultra sensitive nose will be able to detect long after you have disinfected it. This will encourage them to use the same spot again, so it is important to clean accidents with biological washing powder followed by a pet odour eliminator. Ordinary household cleaners mask the smell from us but contain chemicals that are thought to attract the pup back to the same place!
How long will it take?
Different puppies learn at different rates. A puppy that has come from a dirty or cramped kennel is likely to take longer.
Occasional lapses
It is not uncommon for housetraining to break down when the puppy feels insecure or is put under stress of any kind. This includes being punished unpredictably, if it is unwell, and sudden change in family stability such as Christmas or quarrels. If you are using a puppy cage ensure the cage is not used as punishment. Placing a blanket over the cage and moving it to a quieter area, avoiding walk ways can help.
It will take a long time for your puppy to become reliably house trained. Occasional lapses during the first year are understandable and to be expected since your puppy is still a young animal. For the first year think of your puppy as toddler!
Toilet training on command
Toilet training should not end at house training. About seven million dogs live in this country. The public are becoming increasingly conscious of the problems of dog fouling, especially on pavements and areas where children play. If you want to avoid the unpleasant task of picking up after your dog in the street it makes sense to train your dogs to go before you leave home.
If you have been successfully working at the house training process you will have a particular phrase that your puppy will associate with going to the toilet. You should also have a fairly regular routine and have some idea of when your puppy needs to go. Try to coincide your first walk with this time. Go out to the garden as usual, repeating your chosen phrase until your puppy does what is required. Praise enthusiastically and then take him out for a walk. If he does not go to the toilet take him inside and try again later.
If you take your dog out for a walk only after he has been to the toilet he will eventually begin to realise that producing the required deposit results in a walk!
Controlling Chewing
Teething occurs between the ages of 3½ to 7 months. During this time chewing is a natural behaviour to relieve discomfort and aid the removal of puppy teeth, however if pups are not encouraged to chew correct safe toys they will chew anything they find. Pups also use chewing as a way to explore objects within their environment, this exploratory chewing can last until the pup is 10-11 months of age and is more pronounced in gundog breeds such as Labradors.
Again puppy cages can be useful to teach your puppy the right and wrong things to chew by denying them access to your prize possessions when you are not supervising them. When you are around allow the puppy supervised access into other areas of the house. If the pup starts to chew unwanted objects you will need to correct it in such a way that that it thinks the correction comes from the object itself rather than you. If you tell the pup off it will learn not to chew when you are around rather than not to chew at all! Use a small water pistol or rattle a can to startle the pup. Encourage it to move away and then play with an appropriate toy. Hide the water pistol from view and deny all knowledge if it looks at you and praise your pup when it shows interest in its own toys. Avoid physically removing an object as it will be even more appealing when it returns or creates a game of tug and war which is even more fun!
Mouthing
Mouthing is again a natural behaviour used between litter mates when playing. While it may be cute as a puppy it can be very dangerous when the adult teeth arrive! Dogs must be taught that teeth and human skin must never make contact. Always use a dog toy when playing with your pup, if the puppy starts to nip or mouth you during a game give a firm ‘no’ and stop the game, if you are holding the pup put it down and walk away. If the problem persists hold the pups mouth closed whilst saying ‘no’ then ignore the pup. The pup will soon learn the fun stops when I bite my owner and not the toy. Waving a pointed finger at a puppy is like waving a sausage under its nose so will not reinforce the command!
Training
This starts the day you bring the puppy home. Be consistent and make sure everyone in the house knows the rules. Keep commands simple using single words, don’t repeat them or alter your tone as you pup will learn that the third time mum says ‘sit’ in her really scary voice is the time I should behave, the rest of the time I can dance around! Always remember to reward good behaviour and ignore bad behaviour. Never smack or shake a pup. Puppies will learn faster if they are working to try and please you, rather than worrying if you are going to punish it. Find out what makes your dogs tail really wag, be it fluffy toys, or food, and use this as a training aid. However as your dog matures the relationship and bond between you should be so strong that pleasing you becomes the bigger motivation!
‘Come’- ask somebody to restrain your puppy, take a few paces backwards, then using your most exciting voice say the pups name and ‘come’, when the pup gets to you use one hand to take hold of the collar and the other to reward with a fuss or a game with a toy. Holding the collar in this way is not something we tend to do on a regular basis but is important in an emergency situation. When puppies are small ‘come’ is perhaps the easiest command to teach as they still look to their parent figure for reassurance, however as they get to adolescence (5-18 months) stubbornness will often set in! When you start to let the puppy off the lead over the park call it back regularly for a game as well as when you see another dog, even if it is one you know. By doing this the pup will learn you are fun to come back to and that it is always expected of him, if it is a dog you know use a release command to then let the pup go off and play.
‘Sit’- there are 2 ways to teach this position:
1. Using firm but gentle pressure slide one hand down the dogs back gently pushing it downwards whilst using a hand under the chin to guide the head up.
2. Get the pups attention with a small amount of food or a toy. Move your hand just above and toward the back of its head, as it follows your hand it should sit.
Once in the sit position say the ‘sit’ command and then reinforce with the food or toy. Once the pup knows the command and does it with ease, practice it in the garden and then over the park. Use it as a safe way to wait before crossing the road.
Do not make the following mistake: As previously mentioned many owners will say ‘sit’ several times with out success, they then change the tone of their voice and say ‘sit’, then ‘sit down’. As the dog gets older they believe it is stubborn because it doesn’t sit immediately on command when in fact sit has no meaning and sit down is the command they have taught!
It is important to enrol your puppy in training classes so that further socialisation and commands can be learnt. We attend the following training classes and know they are friendly and use kind training methods:
We also recommend ‘The Perfect Puppy’ a book by Gwen Bailey.
The Perfect Puppy: Britain's Number One Puppy Care Book
Unwanted Behaviour
What if my puppy digs in the garden?
Digging is a natural behaviour for most dogs, but it is especially strong in Terriers and Dachshunds. Dogs dig in order to:
Bury bones and toys
Catch moles and rodents burrowing below the surface
Create a cool hollow in which to lie during hot weather
Create a den in which to have puppies during natural or false pregnancy
In imitation of human gardening behaviour
Preventative Methods:
Keep your pup with you while you are in the garden so that bad behaviour can be corrected immediately, either by a squirt with the hose or verbally! Ensure they have plenty of their own toys in the garden to play with.
It can help to fill in the hole with large stones or slabs of concrete to deter them before filling it with earth.
Put low fencing around flowerbeds until the pup has learnt garden manners.
Bury boundary fencing at least a foot below ground level, or peg down wire, to prevent them from digging their way out
What if my puppy uproots plants?
It is not uncommon for a puppy to retrieve and bring indoors to you things that you have recently planted. This may be because they bear your scent and the pup has misguidedly thought it necessary to return the plants to you.
Don’t eradicate the retrieve instinct just redirect it! Replace the plants whilst your pup shut out of the way and then teach your puppy the game of ‘fetch’. Encourage your pup to find a toy you have thrown for it and then call it back to you, as it brings the toy reward it by making a fuss of the pup. Do not go to grab the toy straight away as the pup will not want to bring it too you in the future! Once you have made a fuss of the pup and played a little tug of war throw the toy again. The pup will want to seek the same reward so will bring the toy back.
What if my puppy bites the heads off flowers?
Puppies often spend their first spring and summer sampling the vegetation in the garden and it can be difficult to control this exploratory instinct. Use some temporary fencing to discourage your pup, if it continues to go back to the plants, say leave and walk it away to something it can chew! Do not leave a puppy unsupervised in the garden for long periods – mischief is sure to result!
Home Health Checks
As previously discussed it is important to train your puppy to behave correctly now to avoid problems later, this is also true with regards to health checks: A healthy puppy that is used to having its ears pulled at, its feet touched, and its coat combed will be easy for both yourself and veterinary staff to handle and treat if future health problems arise.
As with all training sessions they should be approached as a fun (not fearful) activity. As the dog gets older it should learn to be calm during the health check. To help with this teach the dog a few simple commands such as ‘stand’, ‘down’ and ‘dead’ to enable you to check all areas of its body. Practice makes perfect so do the health checks regularly and always reward their good behaviour with a game.
Do not get cross with your puppy and always be gentle with them. Ending on a painful or negative experience will always be remembered; this is why many older dogs go on to develop a fear of the vets or a phobia of particular areas of their body being handled.
As the dog gets older regular health checks should still be carried out, ideally once a week. This will maintain the training and help you to identify any problems earlier thus allowing a better response to veterinary treatment.
The puppy and junior parties help make the vets a fun place at the beginning but remember to keep it that way! Your pet does not have to be unwell to come and see us! Bring them regularly to be weighted (this is non evasive) or when you come to collect wormers etc, let them have a sniff round and say hello to the receptionists or nursing staff!
Things to monitor on a daily basis:
• Urination- Note the frequency and colour as changes in either may indicate a urinary infection or a bitch that is about to come into heat. Is he/she straining to pass urine?
• Defecation- Again it is important to note frequency and colour, as well as consistency. Look for undigested food or foreign bodies. A failure to produce faeces can be just as uncomfortable as diarrhoea!
• Thirst- Try to gain some idea of how much water is being drunk. A change from wet to dry food may result in increased trips to the water bowl, however excessive thirst in older dogs may be linked with pyometra or diabetes.
• Appetite- A reluctance to eat combined with vomiting or diarrhoea may indicate digestive upsets or a foreign body, whilst a ravenous dog with a pot belly may indicate worms.
• Behaviour- Changes in behaviour may be a sign your dog is feeling under the weather, these may include: a reluctance to go for walks, being snappy or aggressive, seem disorientated or not wanting to settle.
• Teeth- We all brush our own teeth daily to prevent periodontal disease, the same should be done with dogs. Puppies begin to loose their baby teeth between 3½ to 7 mths so training should begin after this, attempting it before is likely to cause pain or discomfort. Begin by using a finger toothbrush and animal toothpaste, pass this over your dogs teeth, as the dog learns to tolerate it gradually increase the length of time spent on each row of teeth. Progress to a baby toothbrush for small breeds or a normal toothbrush for large breeds. Human toothpaste should never be used as it will cause stomach problems. Suitable doggy flavour pastes are available and enjoyed by most, making it a rather tasty experience!
• Fluffy breeds that walk in long grass in the summer should have their ears and paws examined daily for grass seeds. Once these get trapped in the fur they migrate into the skin causing abscesses or chronic ear problems.
Weekly Checks
• Eyes- Look for excessive discharge or a change in the colour of discharge. Check that the surface of the eye is clear and not cloudy.
• Ears- Check that there is no discharge or odour coming from the ear canal. Examine the earflaps for any redness, swelling or the presence of wounds. Behavioural signs of an ear problem include: shaking or scratching of the head or frantic rubbing of the head along the carpet!
• Skin/coat- Look for greasy patches, scurf, inflammation, bare patches or areas of thickened skin. Check the skin for evidence of fleas, flea dirt or ticks. Look for worm segments around the anus. Check the whole body for warts or lumps under the skin. Behavioural signs of a skin problem include: frantic scratching, rubbing or biting of the skin.
• Paws- Examine the pads for wounds or cracks.
• Claws- Examine nail beds for signs of infection. Check the claws are not too long or split, don’t forget the dewclaws.
• Mammary glands- Feel all the mammary glands for the presence of tumours. Bitches can develop a phantom pregnancy after they have been in heat which can cause milk production. With the absence of pups this can progress to a more serious condition called mastitis. Therefore it is particularly important to check for the presence of milk, by gently squeezing the teats, after a bitch has been in heat.
• Vulva- If your bitch is not spayed you should check her vulva for a discharge or swelling as this combined with excessive licking will indicate she is in heat. Older entire bitches should have their vulva checked for three months after their heat for any unusual discharge or puss as this indicates a pyometra, a fatal condition.
Canine First Aid
The key to emergency first aid for dogs is to maintain airway, breathing and circulation until help arrives or can be sought.
Road Traffic Accident
A conscious dog that has been involved in a traffic accident will often try to run away despite serious injury, a noose should therefore be placed around the dogs neck to contain it whilst it calms down.
If the patient is able to move then use a towel or jacket under its waist and or chest to support it to the car.
Severely injured dogs will need muzzling as even the friendliest dog will bite if in extreme pain, use a length of bandage or string to tie around the dogs nose, however it is important to remove the muzzle during transportation in the car.
If the dog is not conscious take it quickly to a vet, if possible phone them in advance to let them prepare.
Use a blanket, towels or even items of clothing to keep the dog warm and reduce the effects of shock.
If the dog is bleeding heavily use an absorbent pad and or bandage to reduce blood loss. If blood seeps through one layer add another, don’t be tempted to remove the original. If there is something embedded in the wound or broken bones are visible apply pressure to the armpit or groin.
Wherever possible use a stretcher when transporting non-mobile patients as they may well have severe spinal, abdominal or thoracic injuries, avoid unnecessary jolting as this may result in further damage.
Choking
Dogs that chase sticks, stones or tennis balls all carry the risk of getting an object stuck in the mouth or throat. A ball lodged at the back of the throat may be an emergency as the blocked airway will result in asphyxiation.
Whilst one person holds the mouth open use a rod to hook the ball out, if you use your hands be careful not to push the ball down further. Smaller patients can be suspending upside down by their back legs and shaken to try and dislodge the item.
Fits
There are a number of causes including hypocalcaemia, poisoning, head trauma or epilepsy. During fits the animal may paddle its legs, howl and pass urine or faeces.
Do not touch the animal.
Move items away from the animal.
Reduce noise and provide a darkened room.
Observe the fit and monitor its time.
Comfort the animal on recovery but be careful as it will be dazed and confused and may bite.
If the fit doesn’t stop contact the surgery.
Transportation of a fitting animal is not advised, if essential then minimal handling is required e.g. roll the dog onto a blanket keeping fingers away from the mouth
Wounds
Small puncture type wounds on well behaved dogs can be treated at home by simply clipping the fur away, flushing with antiseptic (provided in the first aid kits) and then cleaned regularly. Large wounds may require surgical intervention and antibiotics.
Ripped claws
Bleed lots!!!!!!!!!
Apply a foot bandage or put a sock over the foot and then contact the surgery, a sedative may be required to trim the claw back and apply a further dressing.
Heat stroke
Take care not to walk your dog between 11am and 3 pm in the summer.
Place towels soaked in cold water over the dog to begin to reduce its temperature, severe heat stroke will require intravenous fluid therapy (a drip) to compensate for the dehydration that will have occurred.
Burns/ scalds
Cool the damaged area by running the cold tap or even a garden hose over the wound for five minutes, this will reduce heat within the cells therefore fewer will die. Severe scalding is less painful as nerve endings become damaged and no longer function.
Always contact the surgery as the wound may become dry and thickened, and secondary infection may occur. Don’t be tempted to dress the wound immediately as this will trap any remaining heat and continue the cooking process!
Hot oil or fat will congeal to the wound as it cools trapping in heat, use an absorbent towel to soak up as much as possible, and then use a soapy detergent solution to break down the fat residue.
Ant bites and wasp/bee stings
Try to identify the area that has been bitten or stung and how many times- unless you are unfortunate enough to have disturbed a nest hopefully there will be just the one sting or bite to contend with. They will cause local swelling so if your pet has been stung in the throat and mouth it may block the airways. It is not uncommon for some animals to have an anaphylactic reaction especially if there have been multiple stings, if you are unsure take your pet to a vet for close observation, if the worse were to happen the appropriate emergency treatment can be given immediately.
Remove the stinger- the sting of a bee is shaped like a harpoon so it will remain embedded in the animal, unlike the wasp sting, which is smooth. The stinger left behind can continue to inject venom into the skin. Use a flat piece of card or pin to remove the sting in a similar way to removing a splinter but be careful not to transfer it to your own skin!
Use an icepack on the area- this will reduce the local swelling and pain, if ice is not available use cool running water. Animals with dense coats may need a little haircut although take care not to cut them!
Apply a topical antihistamine or hydrocortisone cream- again these reduce swelling and pain, they can be prescribed by the vet. Alternatively calamine lotion or bicarbonate of soda (toothpaste) can be used as these are alkaline so neutralise the acidic sting or bite.
Adder Bites
The adder is the only venomous snake in the UK. It has a dark zigzagging pattern making it different from other native snakes/lizards it likes areas of chalky or sandy soil in rough open countryside or on the edge of woodland. Adders hibernate when temperatures drop below 9c (between September to march). Bites occur most commonly on the lower limbs or face, between June and August.
The venom causes a sharp pain followed by local inflammation, the affected area can become hugely swollen and bruised. It can also cause vomiting, diarrhoea, fever, increase heart rate and low blood pressure, in severe cases fitting and coma.
Immobilise the limb/animal- the more the animal moves around the more the venom is pumped to the surrounding tissues and around the body. Try to carry the animal to a car or if necessary take the car to the animal.
Do not interfere with the wound- the use of an ice pack can increase blood flow to the wound and so encourage the spread of venom.
Consult a vet- antivenom and a number of other drugs can be used if the animal starts to develop any of the other more serious signs.
Gastric bloat/torsion
This normally occurs in breeds of dogs that are deep chested such as Weimeraners. Gastric bloat/torsion occurs when dogs are exercised immediately after feeding. The stomach fills with air and then twists becoming a balloon in the dogs abdomen. It can become rapidly fatal so seek immediate veterinary assistance. Signs include dry retching, salivation, swollen abdomen, followed by difficulty breathing and collapse. Reduce the risks by:
• Avoid feeding large meals, especially of dry food.
• Avoid exercising for up to an hour after a meal.
• Feed from a raised food bowl.
Poisoning
Puppies will try to eat anything, you must therefore keep all poisonous substances out of reach (see below). Unless rodenticides can be used in the garden 100% safety and security do not use them. If insecticides or weed killers are to be used keep dogs away while spraying and do not allow them access to sprayed plants until the spray has dried. Cover or take water bowls indoors while spraying. Take special precautions if farm land or road verges are being sprayed.
If an accident has occurred within the past 30 minutes make the dog sick before the substance has the chance to be absorbed by the stomach. The most effective way to do this is to use soda crystals: put some down the back of the dogs throat holding its mouth closed until it swallows, vomiting will take place within a few minutes so have newspaper to hand!
Always contact the vet, this is especially true if you do not know when the poison was consumed as more involved action will be required.
If you suspect the agent is corrosive such as car battery acid and phenols (Jeyes fluid), do not induce vomiting.
Poisonous substances to be avoided:
In The Home
House hold plants- Oleander, Lily of the Valley, Poinsettias and Christmas trees
Nicotine – Cigarette or cigar ends.
Detergents and disinfectants– if used undiluted or at incorrect strengths these can be irritant, even corrosive especially if your dog walks on or licks a wet surface. Ensure such cleaners are properly vacuumed up or allowed to dry before allowing your dog in the room
Chocolate- it may cause vomiting, diarrhoea, increased heart rate, rapid breathing, hyperactivity, fits, even coma and death. Plain and dark chocolate contains more Theo bromine than milk chocolate. Effects can be seen 1-4 hours after eating 454 gms for a 10-20kg dog.
Onions, potatoes, tomatoes and peppers- these can cause breathing problems and excess mucus production.
In the garden
Rodenticides- AlphaChloralose causes hypothermia. Coumatetralyl, Chlorophacinone, Difenacoum, Brodifacoum, Bromadiolone and Warfarin cause the blood to stop clotting so the animal bleeds to death internally. Also watch out for: Antu, Calciferol, Crimidine Phosphorus, Thallium, and Arsenic.
Molluscicides- Metaldehyde and Carbomate.
Herbicides- Dinitro Compounds, Chlorates, and Paraquat.
Insecticides- Borax, Organophosphates/chlorines.
Fungi/Toadstools
Mistletoe Berries- Be careful at Christmas if the berries are brought indoors.
Bulbs- Train dogs not to dig in the garden and take care when planting. Keep stored bulbs out of reach.
Other plants to be avoided include- Baneberry, Star of Bethlehem, Kalmia, Celandine, Wisteria, Poison and Water Hemlock, Daphne, Wild Cherries, Cocklebur, Nettles, Poison Ivy, Dumb Cane, Euphorbia, Deadly Nightshade, Rhubarb, Digitalis, Jimsonweed, Laburnum, Yew Trees, and Oak
Anti freeze- Ethylene Glycol
Common toad- secretes toxic venom over its skin if animals try to pick them up. It is normally ingested in tiny amounts so simply cause irritation of the mouth and salivation.
If you have a dog with behaviour problems or you would like private dog training then contact Helen Kibble on 07793 737730. Helen is a qualified vet nurse, dog trainer and dog behaviourist and she is based in Chelmsford in Essex.
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